(by Patrizia Vacalebri) (ANSA) - Rome, October 22 - Men's suits in 2016 bid farewell to slim fits, according to high-end Rome tailor Atelier Panetta. Jackets will be softer, "close to the body" and long enough to cover the hips, with the classic three-button blazer or double-breasted jacket making a comeback, said Rocco Panetta, an attorney and grandson of the atelier's founder Vito Panetta, who started making bespoke suits in 1949. Pants will also have a softer, more comfortable fit replacing the slim silhouettes seen over the last few seasons. Royal blue will be the top hue and patterns will steer towards classic motifs such as pinstripes and Glen checks. Shirts will see a return of stripes after a few seasons dominated by white, said Panetta, whose atelier organized a show this week in Rome to present its new custom-made offerings. "Our keyword is tailoring, this concept is the starting point for the style of the new businessman, with staples that make up his wardrobe", he explained. Men, like women, are obsessed with on-trend colors for the new season and Panetta said 2016 will be the year of royal blue "because we believe it is a hue that fits all sizes and heights and is suitable for both elegant and sporty attires". "Contrary to camel, which is always present but suits taller men, royal blue is perfect for everybody". Suits, which have been slim-fitting for years now, will be softer at atelier Panetta. "A man's jacket should simply follow the body - cuts that are too slim can be uncomfortable because men need to carry everything, from cell phones to sunglasses and this should not be visible from the outside". "And the on-trend jacket has three buttons, possibly with a Glen check".
Tight-fitting pants are also out, the tailor said. "Ideally, pants should follow the shape of the leg but never cling, nor leave too much room" when a man is on the go. Trouser cuffs that are so fashionable right now should be four-centimeters-high. And when it comes to shirts, stripes are a classic staple, perfectly suitable for blazers and double-breasted jackets and to be worn with any tie, possibly with an Italian spread collar. Angled cuffs are also on trend. As for ties "the slim four-centimeter models suit young men more while eight centimeters is the natural width; care should also be placed on the knot as ties should never be too long", Panetta said, warning that men should never copy someone else's style, but rather take them as an example to find their own personal touch. Initials, for example, should go on shirts but not on cuffs or collars - with personal flair limited to graphic design and color. Meanwhile, Atelier Panetta is selling a limited edition of ties inspired by Roman emperors and legends with the "Imperium" line created by Christian Correnti. Gentlemen-in-the-know can also opt for a bow tie and a pocket square.