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Migrant hired after handing in wallet with 900 euros

 
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7 of 10 gynecologists conscientious objectors agst abortion

 
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Cloistered nuns return to quake zone, in container

 
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Treccani adds Sordi to Italian biographical dictionary

 
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Woman's charred body found in wood near Brescia

 
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Merkel lauds Italy Libya line

 

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The innovative power of memory at Gucci

The evocative force of the present at Emporio Armani

The innovative power of memory at Gucci

Rome, January 19 - Memory is reactivated by poetry at Gucci, where Alessandro Michele reaffirmed the new creative direction of the fashion house with his fall 2016 men's wear show on Monday. The collection cross-referenced Marxist theorist Walter Benjamin and Snoopy, spawning what could be a new comfort zone lying between highbrow and street culture. Benjamin believed the past is useful if it can illuminate the present, and Michele quoted him to show his new take on an existing canvas. Rich in colors and ideas, the collection mixing casual and formal wear strove to make each genderless piece desirable as a stand-alone item. Down the catwalk went Snoopy portrayed on a T-shirt, Lurex knits, a snakeskin suit and a velvet suit with Chinese embroideries, Peruvian-style beanies, loafers with pearl-studded heels, patterned suits with flare pants, brocade coats and lumberjack plaids - including one featuring a roaring bear. The pieces that have become in-house icons were all there - the bow blouses, the loungewear with pajama suits and velvet robes, the fur-lined loafers. The brand's 1970s soul was quoted, though it was only a part of Michele's complex storyline, conveying a contemporary idea of memory rather than its manifestation. Also on Monday, Emporio Armani remained anchored in the present with a show called Up to Date. Techno tailoring played a key role in the house's narrative for fall 2016 with leather bonding, taping, and high visibility inserts. Denim and laser cuts were central to the storyline focusing on "a man who is certain of being part of 2016, without extravagance and excesses, but with acceptable updates," Giorgio Armani said. "I worked hard not to be consumed by the stress of novelty," he added. The result was a sophisticated palette of stone grey, deep blue and forest green with a futuristic take on classic fabrics like glen checks and denim, injecting a sense of comfort into the silhouettes. Futuristic skiwear mingled with aluminum foil-colored parachute trousers, chunky knits and mirrored goggles, double-breasted jackets over pleated pants, shawl and mandarin-collared jackets over soft pants and velvet tuxedos. "Impeccable suits are a bore," Armani said.

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