Giovedì 17 Gennaio 2019 | 19:11

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Rome
Soccer: Gattuso gets 1-match ban for insulting ref

Soccer: Gattuso gets 1-match ban for insulting ref

 
Rome
Faster post-quake reconstruction says Conte

Faster post-quake reconstruction says Conte

 
Vatican City
God's word not ideology says pope

God's word not ideology says pope

 
Imola
M5S votes League motion to remove Arabic hospital signs

M5S votes League motion to remove Arabic hospital signs

 
Milan
Soccer: Inter ultra leader nabbed for Napoli clashes

Soccer: Inter ultra leader nabbed for Napoli clashes

 
Naples
From Canova to Magna Graecia at Naples' MANN

From Canova to Magna Graecia at Naples' MANN

 
Rome
Bond spread dips under 250 points

Bond spread dips under 250 points

 
Genoa
Man nabbed for shooting at neighbours

Man nabbed for shooting at neighbours

 
Rome
Rome to present new plan for historic architecture

Rome to present new plan for historic architecture

 
Rome
Exports down 0.4% in Nov on Oct - ISTAT

Exports down 0.4% in Nov on Oct - ISTAT

 
Savona
12 nabbed for importing stolen cars from Lithuania

12 nabbed for importing stolen cars from Lithuania

 

Rome

Back to the present at Prada, artistry at Ferragamo

Bottega Veneta goes essential

Back to the present at Prada, artistry at Ferragamo

Rome, January 18 - The present has resonated on the catwalk at Prada's men's wear fall 2016 show in Milan, despite recurrent echoes of the past. Miuccia Prada's excursion through history on Sunday was to "reflect on the present", she said. The designer staged her show within a multi-layered setting designed to evoke the "auto-da-fé", the Spanish Inquisition's public sentencing of heretics, while conveying a sense of separation between different social classes. Social hierarchies still "weigh heavily" on society, while the public square "represents the idea of talking about fundamental times in history to learn something from our past", she noted. And the Prada man next fall is as multi-faceted as his history. He wears clashing garments like a bold patterned shirt under an austere jacket, his pants slightly wide on the leg. He is an enigma but has nothing of the vulnerability of last season's Prada man. He wears traces of his heritage to show he is a survivor, safely finding his path in Prada chunky shoes. Indeed troubled times of war, terror and immigration, past and present, have translated into a collection that is a visual representation of "infamous and heroic times". Garments fit loosely on the models, fabrics looked worn and patterns designed in collaboration with artist Cristophe Chemin gave a new spin on past icons. Motifs mapped out an "impossible love" between Cleopatra and Elvis Presley while a Noah's arch was abandoned in an industrial landscape to signify "utopic survival", a visual effort to link the now and then and make sense of it all. Shirts were styled under austere coats and sailors' hats. There were also sailor-collar jumpers and narrow suiting with pants barely scraping the ankle. There were capes conveying clerical-style austerity, shirts with detachable cuffs left open for an undone look, frock coats with a military vibe, funky tweed coats and macs with a fake hood. Dark hues - black and navy in particular - with notes of brown dominated, while the patterned shirts had a touch of white and pops of bright colors, like light blue and orange. A few female models on the catwalk donned romantic outfits, including a velvet dress open wide at the back over embroidered wool stockings and velvet sandals, a sailor hat sitting primly on the head. Elsewhere in Milan on Sunday, Andy Warhol's paint-spattered shoes were the inspiration behind Massimiliano Giornetti's fall collection at Salvatore Ferragamo. After the death of the Pop Art genius, the Ferragamo house bought the artist's shoes and reproductions of his oxfords served as inspiration for a collection mixing classic aesthetic and artistry. A play on patterns, the creative director's signature style, intensified the contrast. Classic chevron, houndstooth and plaid prints were as much the backbone of the collection as the bold patterns inspired by Egon Schiele's expressionist painting on shirts and knitwear. Yet the freshness of the slim suiting and a palette embracing loud notes of orange and pink - along with brown, navy blue, black and grey - were precisely crafted to convey at once the urgency of youth and a classic deluxe vibe highlighted by shearling and mink details in the sweaters and outerwear And while sleek tailoring and paint-splattered shoes made the man at Ferragamo, Tomas Maier at Bottega Veneta struck a note of rigor for next fall. "The collection is built from the silhouette, I wanted to create a slim and elongated line - at once elegant and refined", Maier said Sunday. And Bottega's man next fall is discreet yet self-assured - "nothing is ostentatious", noted Maier - with a wardrobe of deluxe essentials including double-breasted coats and suits, leather pants and soft jumpers in rigorous notes of grey, black, blue, green and burgundy, with a play on checks. Long jackets and pants contributed to the lean look and clean aesthetic also resonating in the few women's outfits on the catwalk. The focus was on precious fabrics, the cashmere sweaters and suits, the velvet in cotton and linen and the leather in coats, macs and biker pants. The crocodile-skin briefcase was designed for a modern businessman on a mission, striding along in square-toe boots or bowling shoes. And details, including zippers running down the leg of biker pants, made the difference - though with discretion.

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