>>>ANSA/ Fur vests give artful spin to luxury this winter

(by Elisa Cecchi). (ANSA) - Rome, November 17 - An influential group of designers this fall-winter has conceived an artful synthesis of textures and patterns in a no-boundaries mix - the fashion equivalent of fusion cuisine. Chunky knits, techno fabrics, fringes, tassels, tribal motifs, geometric and floral patterns are an eyeful across collections this season in a fusion of cultures and tastes. This multicultural melding is in tune with a very on-trend anti-trend attitude that mocks the rise and fall of hemlines and the inflation and deflation of silhouettes to celebrate long-lasting clothes. And the inclination to transcend the boundaries of time and space is reflected in a key item used by designers to highlight ethnic references or give a luxurious spin to a "normcore" mood vying for timeless staples through self-aware blandness - the fur vest. Turning a luxury fashion piece par excellence into a vest has made it versatile, allowing a peek into what lies beneath the surface. Donatella Versace has given a bold interpretation to this piece of outerwear with a lime fur vest she mixed with her trademark sexy short dresses - the fluorescent palette paying homage to the Art Deco Le Centorial dome building designed by Gustave Eiffel that inspired the collection. Gabriele Colangelo has added an androgynous touch to "normcore" this fall with clothes inspired by Russian painter Kazimir Malevich's Black Square and the gray-scale watercolours of German artist Joachim Bandau. The austerity is perfectly counterbalanced by rich fur vests mixed with tailored pieces. And who better than Italian-Haitian creator Stella Jean to give fashion fusion a spin. The young designer who has made a name for herself by infusing classical western fare with a subtle medley of African, Asian and Latin American flavours, has designed Mongolia fur vests to wear over skirts and pants in wax prints matched with classic Oxford shirts in Vichy checks or striped sweaters. Designer Simonetta Ravizza has made the fur vest a key piece of her winter collection with variations on the main theme to suit a youthful clientele.
Short or long, in a palette of different shades of brown, red, blue, black and green, Ravizza designed mink, fox, Mongolia and sable vests to wear over feminine winter staples including straight skirts, tailored pants and lace tops for a straightforward deluxe look. Designer Anna Molinari's Blugirl fall lineup has paid homage to the globetrotter jetting from Milan to Beijing in one breath with bold fur vests including a leopard-print version, along with bolero jackets encrusted with golden beads. Flavio Castellani has given an edgy spin to this season's staple, mixing fur with a techno fabric in optical stripes or using lush sable to craft a gilet high on drama.
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