Sportswear gets an upgrade at Pitti Uomo
Stefano Ricci shows collection in iconic White Hall
12 Gennaio 2017
Florence, January 12 - Sportswear and casual staples are getting a sartorial makeover at the ongoing 91st edition of international menswear trade fair Pitti Uomo in Florence. The 1,220 labels, including 540 from abroad, debuting fall-winter 2017 menswear collections through Friday are focusing on sportswear to roll out collections of luxury casualwear for men who want to dress down but with style and panache. A casual brand like Roy Roger's has cooperated with another Florentine label, the atelier Liverano, to turn its iconic five-pockets jeans into 'sartorial' pants with a looser fit and funky lining. The label PT01 Pantaloni Torino has jockeyed for attention with a nod to Peter Weir's 1989 film Dead Poet's Society with trousers in flannel and yarn-dyed fabrics with an antiquated-gold button styled to look like a signer ring. And the sporty-classic bug has caught a brand like Mason's which has infused military notes into a rock-and-roll inspiration with a capsule collection including studs and patch details and black camouflage patterns. Z Zegna under the new creative direction of Alessandro Sartori was inspired by the brand's skiwear in the 1970s with a deluxe ski suit in Techmerino wool with 'Icon Warmer' technology fit for sub-freezing temperatures and a colorful collection of super-light sneakers. Umbria tailor Cruciani has designed a cardigan-style jacket in baby alpaca while Manuel Ritz has fully embraced the sportswear storyline with jogging-style pants in jersey and wool. Paul Smith's PS collection debut at Pitti Uomo was inspired by the designer's beloved world of cycling for the label's globetrotting clientele with reversible, anti-pleat jackets, windbreakers, bombers designed to fit into tiny bags and trousers styled like jogging pants. One of the windbreakers comes in high-visibility polka dots. George Miller's 1979 film Mad Max and motorcycle gangs inspired the collection presented by Belgian designer Tim Coppens in the first debut of his line in Europe after five consecutive years in New York. And another key attraction of this edition of Pitti Uomo was Florentine tailor Stefano Ricci's fashion show in Palazzo Pitti's White Hall, where Giovan Battista Giorgini in 1952 launched Italy's first steps in the global fashion industry and where no fashion show has been held for the past 35 years. Ricci celebrated the brand's 45-year anniversary with a high fashion menswear collection inspired by its hometown Florence as a "capital of style". The deluxe classic tailoring was made to fit six different age groups, from children to older men, with different themes to carry gentlemen from day and eveningwear.